Add 4 Way Flashers For Safety!

Thanks to Jon 'Chaps' Miller and Ray Haefy

You'll find two tutorials here, both do pretty much the same thing. The first is from Jon Miller the second from Ray Haefy. The primary difference is in the type and size of the switch.

Method One How To

To operate the flashers properly, you should connect your power source to the battery to have the flashers on with the ignition off. (Nomad owners can use the + accessory connector under the front of the gas tank or under the seat) All parts can be purchased at an automotive store. Insure that the switch is a DPDT (double pole double throw) and rated for at least 10 amps (your lights will pull just over 8 amps). Switches vary in physical size. Keep this in mind for location purposes.

There are at least two possible locations for the flasher unit and wiring (see below). Choose the location you think is most suitable for your needs. For most switch locations you'll want to use a weather protective cap.

Parts Needed:

• 1-Signal Flasher (2 post) available at any automotive parts store
• 1-DPDT Switch with minimum 10 amp capacity
• 1-Fuse Holder
• 1-10 Amp Fuse
• Quick Splice Connectors or (better) soldering gun
• Lots of tiny Zip Ties

The tricky part of this method is locating the switch. No instructions can be provided since there are so many potential locations. See this Gadget page for some ideas. Once you have your switch location just wire the switch as shown in the schematic (above) and run the wiring as desired.

Location One, Everything In The Headlight Bucket (how Chaps did it)

1. Remove headlight from bucket (2 phillips screws)
2. Locate the 2 wires going to each turn signal. They are in a plastic tube or sheath. The left signal is green (+) and black/yellow (-). The right signal is grey (+) and black/yellow (-).
3. It is best to use plastic "Quick Splice" connectors (available at auto store). Make one connection to the grey and the green wires. You can use an 18 gauge wire with no problem. It really doesn't matter which wire goes to which terminal on the switch as long as they are connected to the terminals shown in the drawing. The length of the wire will be determined by the location of the switch. 
4. The center 2 poles of the switch get connected together so the flasher sends the signal to both left and right lights at the same time. The front and rear signals share a common line so when the front light flashes, the rear will too, so there is no need to worry about running wires to the rear signal lights.

Location Two, Left Side Cover (How Gadget did it)

More steps (details) are provided for this method since we know exactly where the switch is going

1. Remove the seat and left side cover
2. Locate the 2 wires going to each turn signal. The left signal is green (+) and black/yellow (-). The right signal is grey (+) and black/yellow (-).
3. It is easiest to use plastic "Quick Splice" connectors (available at auto store). Make one connection each to the grey and the green wires. You can use an 18 gauge wire with no problem. It really doesn't matter which wire goes to which terminal on the switch as long as they are connected to the terminals shown in the drawing. The length of the wire will be determined by the location of the switch.
4. Solder wiring to the switch per the schematic leaving extra length. The center 2 poles of the switch get connected together so the flasher sends the signal to both left and right lights at the same time. The front and rear signals share a common line so when the front light flashes, the rear will too, so there is no need to worry about running wires to the rear signal lights.
5. Drill an appropriate size hole in the "top" of the left side cover and fit the switch. Connect the + power wire to the blinker and drop the blinker down into the recess which will be under the cover.
6. Working from the left side of the bike, fish the + power wire from the other side of the blinker and the wires you'll be connecting to your green and gray wires under the top frame tube. Connect the + power wire to one of the accessory terminals (Nomad) or directly to the battery using an appropriate connector.
7. Plug in or connect the wires from your switch to the gray and green wire connectors.
8. If you didn't already try it, turn on the switch! Terrific eh?

Put the side cover back on and the seat, go ride.
You must remember that the flashers are on. The individual left/right blinkers won't work if the flasher is running.
These are very effective if you stop along side of the road, parades and in foggy/rainy conditions.

Ray's Way

Instead of using a double-pole, double-throw toggle switch as shown above I used a small push-on/push-off switch attached to the right switch housing as shown in the photo (right). I fabricated a bracket out of 3/8” thick aluminum and used JB Weld to attached it to the bottom of the right switch housing just under the “Start” button. Aluminum strap could also be used. These switches are not particularly water-proof but by using heat shrink tubing I was able to seal the back side of the switch and have not had any trouble with regard to water. Notice that I was able to pull the small wires into the switch housing harness so that it looks factory.

Because I wanted to use this small switch I needed to use relays to supply power to the lights. These 4-pin relays are available from Pep Boys Auto Stores for $4.99 each and require less than 1/4 amp to operate, a much easier load on a switch than the 8 amps needed in the circuit above. Since I didn’t want the 4-way flashers to work with the key off I used the front run lights as a source of relay activation voltage. If you want to use the flashers with the key off simply connect to your unswitched 12V accessory connector. The relays draw very little current to activate. The fuse is optional because the flashers are already fused as well as the 12V accessory connection in the headlight. I see no need for it really nor do I see a need for a fuse on the activation connection. Everything is located in the headlight bucket.

Tag: lighting